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swell

A relatively long wind wave, or series of waves, that has traveled out of the generating area. In contrast the term sea is applied to the waves while still in the generating area. As these waves travel away from the area in which they are formed, the shorter ones die out. The surviving waves exhibit a more regular and longer period with flatter crests. When these waves reach shoal water, they become more prominent in height and of decreased wavelength and are then known as ground swell.

See WXT G148 for an illustration of swells, waves and ripples.


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